Sunset over the open sawgrass of the Everglades, an airboat silhouetted on the water

South Florida • The Florida Everglades

The Godfather of the Everglades


The stories, people, machines and history that shaped South Florida’s River of Grass.

History • Legends • Wildlife • Airboats • Conservation

A tree island rising from an open sawgrass prairie in the Everglades
A tree island in the sawgrass prairie, Everglades. Photo: Moni3, Wikimedia Commons — public domain.

The Archive Opens

Every legend has a story.

Before highways crossed South Florida, before subdivisions reached westward, there was water. Mile after mile of sawgrass moved beneath an enormous Florida sky.

Godfather of the Everglades documents the people who shaped that country — pioneers and tribal nations, guides and hunters, airboat builders, scientists and the conservationists who fought to save it — along with the wildlife, the machines and the events that changed the River of Grass. Every story is sourced. Where the record is thin, we say so.

The Everglades is not a swamp that stands still. It is a river — a slow one, a wide one, and older than any road that crosses it.

Open sawgrass prairie stretching to a low horizon of tree islands under a wide sky

Chapter One

The River of Grass

Sawgrass prairie, Everglades. Photo: Moni3, Wikimedia Commons, CC BY 3.0.

Call it a swamp and you miss the point. The Everglades moves.

A century ago, rain that fell on central Florida ran down the Kissimmee River into Lake Okeechobee, spilled over the lake’s southern rim and crept south through the sawgrass all the way to Florida Bay. There was no channel. The water moved as a thin, slow sheet across a nearly flat limestone floor — what scientists call sheetflow.

That movement built everything else: the sawgrass marshes and the deeper sloughs, the tree islands that rise like ships from the prairie, the wading-bird colonies and the fish that feed them. When people began draining the marsh for farms, towns and flood control, the river slowed, shrank and broke apart. Much of the modern story — the national park, the canals, the restoration — is an argument about that water.

Historic flow of the Everglades Schematic: water moves from the Kissimmee River into Lake Okeechobee, then south as a broad sheet through the Everglades to Florida Bay. KISSIMMEE RIVER LAKEOKEECHOBEE SHEETFLOWTHROUGH THESAWGRASS FLORIDA BAY
Schematic of the historic Kissimmee–Okeechobee–Everglades system. Not to scale. Source: South Florida Water Management District.

~11,000

square miles of South Florida once covered by the Everglades — SFWMD

≈ ½

of the historic Everglades remains after a century of drainage — SFWMD

1.5M

acres protected today in Everglades National Park — National Park Service

1979

the year UNESCO inscribed Everglades National Park as a World Heritage Site — UNESCO

Chapter Two

The People Who Shaped the Everglades

Tribal nations who made the Glades their home. A landscape architect who would not let the idea of a park die. A writer who gave the place its name in the public mind. And the guides, hunters and airboat men whose stories were mostly never written down.

1866 – 1951

Ernest F. Coe

A landscape architect who arrived in Miami in 1925 and spent the rest of his life campaigning for a national park in the Everglades.

Documented history

1890 – 1998

Marjory Stoneman Douglas

Journalist and author of The Everglades: River of Grass (1947), and one of the region’s most persistent defenders.

Documented history

Before the maps · Today

Seminole & Miccosukee

Nations that endured three wars with the United States and remain in the Everglades today. The Miccosukee Tribe won federal recognition in 1962.

Documented history

Oral histories · In progress

Guides, Hunters & Airboat Men

The working people of the Glades. We are recording their stories now — first-hand, attributed and clearly labeled.

Oral history

Chapter Three · Airboat History

The Machine That Changed the Glades

Nothing under the water. That is the whole trick.

An airboat is a flat-bottomed hull pushed by an aircraft-style propeller spinning in open air. With no propeller or rudder below the waterline, it can skim across inches of water, over sawgrass and through marsh where an ordinary outboard would foul in a few yards. For hunters, frog-giggers, researchers, wildlife officers and, later, visitors, it opened country that had been reachable only by pole, canoe or foot.

Anatomy of an Everglades airboat Side view of an airboat showing the flat hull, the elevated driver’s seat, the engine, the caged propeller and the twin rudders at the stern. 1 2 3 4 5 6

Waterline shown dashed. Select a part to read how it works.

1 Engine

Mounted high and aft, behind the driver. Early builders used surplus aircraft engines; automotive V-8s later became common because they were cheaper and easier to service.

2 Propeller

An aircraft-type propeller pushes air, not water, backward. That thrust drives the hull forward — which is why the boat can run where there is barely any water at all.

3 Prop cage

The round steel guard around the propeller keeps hands, branches, birds and gear out of the blades. It is the airboat’s signature silhouette.

4 Rudders

Tall vertical rudders sit in the propeller’s blast, above the water. Turning them redirects the airflow and swings the stern. With no brakes and no reverse on most boats, the driver steers and slows by reading wind, water and momentum.

5 Hull

Flat, wide and shallow-draft — aluminum or fiberglass on most modern boats. A flat bottom lets the boat plane across the surface and slide over wet grass and mud.

6 Driver position

The driver sits high, in front of the engine, to see over the sawgrass and spot shallows, wildlife and other boats. A control stick works the rudders; a foot pedal works the throttle.

Sources disagree

Who built the first airboat?

Popular histories most often credit Alexander Graham Bell’s team, which experimented with a propeller-driven craft in Nova Scotia around 1905, and aviation pioneer Glenn Curtiss, who is said to have built an air-driven boat for hunting in Florida around 1920. By the 1940s, Florida builders were turning them out commercially. We have not yet confirmed these accounts against primary sources, so we present them as the commonly told version — not the final word.

Chapter Four

A Century in the Everglades

Select a year to open the record. Each entry names its source.

Early 1900s Draining the River of Grass

State-backed drainage, canals and levees begin converting the northern Everglades to farmland and making room for towns. Over the following century, drainage for agriculture, development and flood control cuts the Everglades to roughly half its historic size.

Source: South Florida Water Management District

1916 Royal Palm State Park

Florida creates Royal Palm State Park — about 4,000 acres around Paradise Key — the first protected area in the Everglades. It would later become part of the national park.

Source: National Park Service — Park Establishment

1928 The Tamiami Trail opens

After thirteen years of construction begun in 1915, the road between Tampa and Miami opens across the Everglades in April 1928. It gives the region its first cross-state highway — and places a long dam across the natural southward flow of water. The same year, Ernest F. Coe’s Tropical Everglades National Park Association is organized.

Sources: Miccosukee Tribe of Indians of Florida; National Park Service

1934 A national park is authorized

On May 30, 1934, Congress authorizes Everglades National Park. The law sets the goal, but no land or money yet — assembling the park will take another thirteen years.

Source: National Park Service — Park Establishment

1947 River of Grass and the park’s dedication

Marjory Stoneman Douglas publishes The Everglades: River of Grass. On December 6, 1947, President Harry S Truman dedicates Everglades National Park at a ceremony in Everglades City.

Source: National Park Service

1962 Miccosukee federal recognition

In January 1962 the United States formally recognizes the Miccosukee Tribe of Indians of Florida, whose homelands lie along the Tamiami Trail.

Source: Miccosukee Tribe of Indians of Florida

1967 Endangered: the alligator and the snail kite

Hunting and habitat loss put the American alligator on the endangered list in 1967. The Everglades snail kite is listed the same year. The alligator recovers and is removed from the list in 1987.

Sources: National Park Service species profiles — American alligator, snail kite

1979 World Heritage Site

UNESCO inscribes Everglades National Park on the World Heritage List for its ecosystems and biodiversity. Because of damage to its water supply, it has since been placed on the List of World Heritage in Danger (1993–2007, and again from 2010).

Source: UNESCO World Heritage Centre

2000 The restoration plan

Congress approves the Comprehensive Everglades Restoration Plan (CERP) in the Water Resources Development Act of 2000 — a decades-long federal–state effort to get more clean water flowing south again.

Source: Everglades Restoration Initiatives (South Florida Ecosystem Restoration Task Force)

Today The river, still being argued over

Restoration projects continue across South Florida. UNESCO estimates that water inflows to the park have fallen by roughly 60 percent from pre-drainage levels — which is why the fight over the water is also the fight over the future of the place.

Source: UNESCO World Heritage Centre

Chapter Five

Legends of the Glades

The Everglades has always collected stories — some true, some half-true, some told only after dark at the fish camp. We tell them all. But every one wears a label, so you always know which kind you are reading.

Documented History

Confirmed by primary records or authoritative institutions. Sources cited.

Oral History

A first-hand account from a named person, recorded and attributed. True to the teller’s memory.

Local Legend

A story widely told in the region, possibly rooted in real events, not confirmed.

Folklore

Traditional tales and beliefs. Valued as culture, not offered as fact.

Unverified Story

Reported to us or found in print, still being checked. May change.

Chapter Six

Wildlife of the Everglades

The animals of the Glades are not scenery. They are the clearest record of what has happened to the water.

Alligator mississippiensis

American Alligator

A keystone species. In the dry season, “gator holes” hold water when little else does, sheltering fish, turtles and birds.

Crocodylus acutus

American Crocodile

South Florida is the only place where crocodiles and alligators live side by side — crocodiles in the salty and brackish coast.

Puma concolor coryi

Florida Panther

Once down to an estimated 20–30 animals in 1995, the panther remains endangered and prefers dry upland forest to open marsh.

Rostrhamus sociabilis plumbeus

Everglades Snail Kite

A hawk that eats almost nothing but apple snails — so when the marsh water fails, the kite fails with it.

In the field notebook next: great blue heron · anhinga · white-tailed deer · turtles · snakes · fish · native plants

Chapter Seven · The Records Room

The Everglades Archives

Photographs, maps, clippings, documents and recorded memories — each catalogued with its source, approximate date, copyright status and the context that makes it matter. We publish only material that is public domain, licensed, donated or our own.

Have a family photograph, a letter or a recording? The archive grows through donations.

From the Journal

Latest Stories

All Everglades Stories →

Go Deeper

Explore the Everglades

The best way to understand the River of Grass is to stand at its edge. Start with the people who look after it.

Visit

Everglades National Park

Official visitor information, conditions and safety from the National Park Service.

Culture

Miccosukee Tribe of Indians of Florida

The tribe’s history, told by the tribe, from its homelands along the Tamiami Trail.

Restoration

Everglades Restoration

Progress on the federal–state plan to send clean water south again.

Follow the Story

New chapters are added as the research is done — people, places, machines and the memories of those who were there. If you have a story, a photograph or a document from the Everglades, we would like to hear from you.